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Old 2nd May 2019, 14:26   #56101  |  Link
chrisssj2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warner306 View Post
Did you try both passthrough HDR to display and tone map HDR using pixel shaders with output video in HDR format checked?

Those are your two best options for HDR with an LG OLED display. There is no magic.

If you are talking about chroma upscaling or dithering, try NGU Anti-Alias or NGU Sharp combined with Error Diffusion option 1 or 2.

That should give you the "best quality" HDR.

Also, set the GPU to RGB rather YCbCr. That will actually lower image quality on a PC.
I use default settings. So upon checking this:
---HDR: "where left to decide by madvr" So changed it like you said to "passthrough to display" but you say use passthrough or HDR using pixelshaders..? which one to choose?
Or did you mean just put the HDR option on pixelshader? If so. what to put @Target peak nits? and tone mapping curve?
---Put error Diffusion on Option 2.
---Put chroma on NGU sharp very high. What about image downscale and image upscale?
---And what about the trade quality for performance tab?
---Tried changing ycbr to rgb but nvidia only allows me to choose 8 bit RGB. So can't choose 10 bit.. I think personally I found ycbr 10/12 bit to look better then 8 bit RGB..? The blacks were more black and colours more vibrant?

Last edited by chrisssj2; 2nd May 2019 at 14:29.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 16:24   #56102  |  Link
Warner306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisssj2 View Post
I use default settings. So upon checking this:
---HDR: "where left to decide by madvr" So changed it like you said to "passthrough to display" but you say use passthrough or HDR using pixelshaders..? which one to choose?
Try pixel shaders with HDR output checked. You may or may not prefer it to passthrough. To send the correct metadata to the display, however, the latest Nvidia driver is needed. So playback may stutter with an RTX 2080 due to conflicts with that driver. In that case, go back to 418.91 and stick with passthrough.

Set the target peak nits to 700-1,000 nits;
Tone mapping curve to BT.2390;
Leave color tweaks for fire & explosions at balanced;
Set highlight recovery strength to medium-high.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisssj2 View Post
---Put chroma on NGU sharp very high. What about image downscale and image upscale?
high is a better choice, as very high is a waste of resources for chroma upscaling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisssj2 View Post
What about image downscale and image upscale?
Neither is required with 4K output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisssj2 View Post
---And what about the trade quality for performance tab?
Leave them all unchecked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisssj2 View Post
---Tried changing ycbr to rgb but nvidia only allows me to choose 8 bit RGB. So can't choose 10 bit.. I think personally I found ycbr 10/12 bit to look better then 8 bit RGB..? The blacks were more black and colours more vibrant?
See here:

https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php...438#pid2739438
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Old 2nd May 2019, 17:29   #56103  |  Link
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the i1d3 is notable faster which pretty important for 3D LUT creation.
The speed increases the accuracy by getting more samples in the stability window, but in this case, because TVs and non-Pro monitors are highly unstable to begin with, it's not going to make much of a difference.

For example, my samsung tv's white point algorithm doesn't always arrive at precisely the same gains between backlight setting changes.

The room temperature also greatly affects LED temperature, and white led has +/- 10-20% luminance difference between operable temps

Things like this will add to the delta E far greater than what the meter can improve with measurement speed.

If you catch the i1d3 at sale price, then that's one thing, but facing non-sale prices, There's no reason not to choose Cmunki instead.

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Originally Posted by ryrynz View Post
$140? if I had known that I would've got one.. Uhh.. Someone should've posted here. T_T
Yea, it was sold by adorama camera on Rakuten during rakuten's 20% off black friday promotion. So, $165 (sale price) * 0.8 = $132 + Tax ~$140
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Old 2nd May 2019, 17:57   #56104  |  Link
SirMaster
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What do you guys think about this?

https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-EODIS3-.../dp/B01B96L2QE

It's just a i1d3 right?

Any reason to get the official brand over this? I'm only going to use it with open source software and drivers anyways like ArgyllCMS, DisplayCal, HCFR, madVR.

Last edited by SirMaster; 2nd May 2019 at 18:01.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 21:13   #56105  |  Link
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At the difference of $15 , y risk it ? if it was the difference of $50, yea, I'd give it a go.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 21:15   #56106  |  Link
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At the difference of $15 , y risk it ?
Becasue the x-rite was $259 earlier when I just looked for these :P

All the websites are starting to sync the current $201 price now. First Amazon, now B&H.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 21:21   #56107  |  Link
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u could wait for Bk Fri, should be $165 ish
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Old 2nd May 2019, 22:24   #56108  |  Link
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how can you make sure the room temperature doesn't change to much in a measurement with speed even through it doesn't matter anyway heating the screen(and meter) by simply running has far more effects on temperature and is a default calibration part anyway. the number of patches is just defined by the time you are willing to spend on it and the speed of the meter.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 22:28   #56109  |  Link
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I do it for quality. I don't care how long it takes. I always go for the most amount of patches. With that said, this is where the rabbit hole part comes in, if you're anything like me you'll always be looking at it thinking you can squeeze just that little bit more out of your display.
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Old 2nd May 2019, 22:31   #56110  |  Link
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you know there is no real limited to the number of patches. there are theoretically enough patches to measurer for over 10 years or was it 100?
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Old 2nd May 2019, 22:57   #56111  |  Link
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You guys are overthinking this. The TV and Sensor are unstable over 1.5-2 hours.

Measurements you take exceeding 1.5 to 2 hours (has a probability) of being NON relevant to the data within that 2 hours.

A very good human eye on a person who's trained to know precisely what to look for can discern quality up to ~2-3000 patches. Any more than that is purely academic. again, if anything more patches will increase the average error.

The only time where EXCESSIVELY many patches may outperform fewer is if the monitor has some really weird behavior. The error will still be higher than fewer patches, but it may fix the busted spot.
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Old 3rd May 2019, 01:28   #56112  |  Link
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What do you mean "the TV [...] is unstable over 1.5-2 hours"?
Is this only valid for LCDs with local dimming as the LEDs can vary in temperature depending on content displayed?
Once a display is warmed up it should be stable in its responses.
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Old 3rd May 2019, 01:32   #56113  |  Link
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No it absolutely is not. Daily temperature can vary quite alot. even 2 degrees difference changes the backlight characteristics.

The meter also heats up as the photons hit the sensor surface.

There's a very specific reason you should not calibrate for more than 1-2 hours.

Even 2 hours is asking a bit much.

Y'all can relax on this , cuz the outcome colors are Interpolated, it's not a 1:1 matching game where the accuracy increases linearly with ever more patches.

It just needs to define the general shape of the monitor's behavior.
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Old 3rd May 2019, 02:42   #56114  |  Link
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madVR, not calibration in general. We do have a good Calibration Thread.
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Old 3rd May 2019, 11:34   #56115  |  Link
chrisssj2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warner306 View Post
Try pixel shaders with HDR output checked. You may or may not prefer it to passthrough. To send the correct metadata to the display, however, the latest Nvidia driver is needed. So playback may stutter with an RTX 2080 due to conflicts with that driver. In that case, go back to 418.91 and stick with passthrough.

Set the target peak nits to 700-1,000 nits;
Tone mapping curve to BT.2390;
Leave color tweaks for fire & explosions at balanced;
Set highlight recovery strength to medium-high.


high is a better choice, as very high is a waste of resources for chroma upscaling.



Neither is required with 4K output.



Leave them all unchecked.



See here:

https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php...438#pid2739438
Done checked them all.
As for the link it says recommended:
(madVR) PC levels (0-255) -> (GPU) Full Range RGB 0-255 -> (Display) Output as RGB 0-255

I understand MadVR part, And the GPU is set in Nvidia control panel. but as for the display part I don't remember seeing a 0-255 option.

As to why I can't select RGB 10 bit is because I need to put it at 30 hz.. lol ok so I need to switch this manually each time i watch a movie.. Got it.

I created an nvidia profile for kodi with anisoptric filtering off etc. everything as close to nvidia defaults. And "adaptive power" and "Vsync" on. Pre-render frames @default (3) Did the same for MPC-BE.

Will report back on how it runs!
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Old 3rd May 2019, 13:45   #56116  |  Link
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In displays, the RGB range setting is sometimes called "HDMI black level" and sometimes the values are called Low/High or Standard/Extended.

You could also just leave the graphics card output on 8-bit for all refresh rates and trust madVR's dithering, it's that good.
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Old 3rd May 2019, 13:56   #56117  |  Link
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If you catch the i1d3 at sale price, then that's one thing, but facing non-sale prices, There's no reason not to choose Cmunki instead.
yeah, I should have opted for that one too, didn't know it existed, would have saved me 120 euro's

any suggestions for which software to use, I have the softw that came with it and SpectraCal Ultimate for Business v 5.6.1
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Old 3rd May 2019, 16:30   #56118  |  Link
Warner306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el Filou View Post
In displays, the RGB range setting is sometimes called "HDMI black level" and sometimes the values are called Low/High or Standard/Extended.

You could also just leave the graphics card output on 8-bit for all refresh rates and trust madVR's dithering, it's that good.
I think that is joke. It is spelled out in the link provided above, "LG: Black Level - High."
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Old 3rd May 2019, 19:11   #56119  |  Link
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yeah, I should have opted for that one too, didn't know it existed, would have saved me 120 euro's

any suggestions for which software to use, I have the softw that came with it and SpectraCal Ultimate for Business v 5.6.1
https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=172783
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Old 3rd May 2019, 23:09   #56120  |  Link
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Originally Posted by el Filou View Post
In displays, the RGB range setting is sometimes called "HDMI black level" and sometimes the values are called Low/High or Standard/Extended.

You could also just leave the graphics card output on 8-bit for all refresh rates and trust madVR's dithering, it's that good.
You gotta double check this setting. Not super sure on LG

But on Samsung, it's either Normal or Low.

On PC mode, normal is 0-255, on low it's 16-235

On OTHER inputs, normal is 16-235, low is 0-255

WTH righ?
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