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Old 28th June 2018, 20:45   #1  |  Link
oldschooltech
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Help settings / software bluray archiving

BACKGROUND info:

I have been a long time off and on lurking person on this site and forum. It seems no one does disc backup anymore. I learned settings along time ago for DVD / CD with NERO 6, for data backup.

Now I dont use nero 6 anymore as it can not do blurays, does not work with windows 10 and I have not had a need for mass archiving like I once did.

SOFTWARE question:

It seems most software is about the same for dvd/cd burning anymore can the same be said of bluray backup? ATM I have imgburn, CyberLink Power2Go 10, and ashampoo burning studio free. Cyberlink came in bundle with the powerdvd. I loved Nero and it seems burning rom has not changed its interface, I dont mind buying it if it better.

SETTING question:

what mode / settings are best for data backup on bluray, I rember staying away from UDF and using ISO xxxxx and joliet, BUT now im using bigger files, seems UDF is needed.

MEDIA question:

One last thing, I do plan on using verbatim M disc for my Photo / Videos, but Looked in to media seems verbatim and panasonic are still at the top. Seems a lot of people Liked and recommend Optical quantum bluray, They are 1/2 the cost of verbatim. There was a lot of Testimonial about no bit rot 5-6 year latter and low coasters. I got some, then found out they changed dyes (golden bottom) they got bought out by Vinpower. They seem to have some people upset, but some people say they still work fine. Anyone got input? Are they still anygood, or should I just use them to play with and learn with?

Thanks for everything, I will be back, after this project It will be learning to make HTPC library 5.1 /atmos encoding.

Last edited by oldschooltech; 28th June 2018 at 20:47. Reason: info add
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Old 29th June 2018, 05:01   #2  |  Link
qyot27
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ImgBurn is all you'll need to use. For data backup, go ahead and use UDF. The issue was that back then, XP didn't support UDF 2.5 or 2.6 (both used on retail Blu-ray Discs) except via third-party utilities, and even older versions of Windows had higher restrictions. But UDF 2.6 was finalized in 2005, there is absolutely no reason for any OS from the last decade to not support it fully. If you want to be cautious, you could leave ImgBurn set on plain UDF at version 1.02; if you ever want to author a video Blu-ray, ImgBurn will probably prompt you to change the UDF version to the appropriate level, since it prompts to automatically adjust to the ISO 9660/UDF bridge format when you want to build an ISO from a DVD directory structure.

I'm not sure if the mode settings even mean anything on DVD or Blu-ray (pretty sure that was a track sector layout thing specific to CD-ROM), but leaving ImgBurn on MODE1/2048 is fine.

The only thing I will mention is just, make sure you have plenty of drive space to hold the data.
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Old 29th June 2018, 05:41   #3  |  Link
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Media quality hasn't really been a thing since DVD-R arrived. RW has significant issues, but plain R is extremely durable when stored well. I've actually never seen an unreadable BD-R, the coatings seem to do an excellent job despite being hauled around. I can't say anything about burnability, since I've never had a bad burn that wasn't due to underflow. I'd be very curious who had issues with BD-Rs that were burned correctly and stored well.

You cannot backup a Bluray without UDF, and you shouldn't backup any DVD that's UDF in anything else. Better to create a 1:1 backup than try to translate it to a format that can still be read by Windows 2000. Just don't tweak any options, don't mess with anything, and ImgBurn will create a good mountable copy.
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Old 30th June 2018, 06:24   #4  |  Link
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if you want to archive something cheap and save use external redundant SSD or even SD cards they have much higher life exception are far far cheaper per GB and use an interface which my not die any time soon and if that is too expensive HDD.

optical media has a relative short life time and is extreme expensive and needed hardware that is again expesive.
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Old 30th June 2018, 17:30   #5  |  Link
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Isn't flash a very bad long term storage option? Use mechanical HDDs for longer term unpowered archival, not NAND. The electrons leak out of the cells pretty quickly when they are not powered (compared to the die in a burnable disc), especially if they get warm, unless you use special techniques when writing data. https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7574572/
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Old 30th June 2018, 19:33   #6  |  Link
huhn
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there is no hard data because we don't have a lot of 10-20 year old SSDs.
even on older disk 10 years are relative normal.

and you power it from time to time to add more data on it negating the problem don't forget the test for failure that's where the redundant disc comes in. just storage data on it and assuming it will be fine is not a proper archive if it is really important data.
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Old 30th June 2018, 21:04   #7  |  Link
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Well, make sure not to use QLC at least.

Also, you actually need the SSD to rewrite the data to the cells, the drive's firmware will do this if it is left powered on but it cannot if it is just plugged in, written to, and then unplugged. Wear leveling will probably help some, and I wouldn't be worried using one as a medium term backup drive.

The older, larger cell, flash memory was actually much better in this regard and I would still recommend a hard drive (stored in a Faraday cage) over a SSD for long term unpowered data storage, they are cheaper too.

I will added that for storing bluray for a long time consider M-disc or similar technologies, they really do have more stable materials for storing bits compared to the normal organic dyes of a standard BD-R.
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Old 1st July 2018, 21:39   #8  |  Link
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DVDs and Blurays are extremely durable. Put them in a sleeve in a safe, and they'll be probably be readable whenever they're found after the apocalypse; the dyes mostly break down in heat and UV, not while being cellared. I have 15-year-old no-name DVDs that I can still read and write to, because they're in a closet. Likewise, hard drives are extremely durable when powered off and not aggressively shaken. NVRAM eventually accumulates errors in ways that discs and HDDs can't. Even then, keep two copies of everything if you want actual archiving, never trust a single copy, and even then make sure you have a little error-correction on the side.
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Old 1st July 2018, 23:33   #9  |  Link
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I had dozens of burned DVDs that were no longer readable after ~10 years, kept stored and unused in the dark.
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Old 1st July 2018, 23:46   #10  |  Link
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You also could add some recovery data next to each file. I use https://multipar.eu/ mostly for big files.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parchive
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Old 9th August 2018, 20:23   #11  |  Link
oldschooltech
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Thank you all for your input.

I know all about crc, par, par2, hash ext..

I will be doing more research into bluray media, getting the best I guess. Then doing some form of HDD backup.

Most of the stuff is priceless videos and photo of my family.

Looking at fireboxs now for them, they seem to have a lot of bad reviews for being hard to open and use battery. I learned quick firesafe for documents is not the same as firesafe for HDD disc and media.
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